Flood göndermek, insanların floodlarını okumak ve diğer insanlarla bağlantı kurmak için sosyal Floodlar ve Flood Yanıtları Motorumuza kaydolun.

Oturum aç

Flood göndermek, insanların floodlarını okumak ve diğer insanlarla bağlantı kurmak için sosyal Floodlar ve Flood Yanıtları Motorumuza giriş yapın.

Şifremi hatırlamıyorum

Şifreni mi unuttun? Lütfen e-mail adresinizi giriniz. Bir bağlantı alacaksınız ve e-posta yoluyla yeni bir şifre oluşturacaksınız.

3 ve kadim dostu 1 olan sj'yi rakamla giriniz. ( 31 )

Üzgünüz, Flood yazma yetkiniz yok, Flood girmek için giriş yapmalısınız.

Lütfen bu Floodun neden bildirilmesi gerektiğini düşündüğünüzü kısaca açıklayın.

Lütfen bu cevabın neden bildirilmesi gerektiğini kısaca açıklayın.

Please briefly explain why you feel this user should be reported.

I want to digitally archive 120 years of family photos. Any tips?

My 90 year old grandmother has all our family photo albums dating back to the end of the 19th century and up to the early 2000s. I don’t know exactly how many photos she has, but I’d say it’s in the ballpark of 1000+. I know it’s going to be a lot of working scanning them all, but we’re in no rush. It’s going to be a fun project, where she tags the photos and I touch up any rough looking ones in Lightroom.

Storage is not an issue, but where I am conflicted is what settings to use. I was under the impression that 600 dpi is the sweet spot for prints, allowing you to crop it and preserve details. Then again, maybe that’s overkill? I believe the biggest photos we have are 8.5 x 11″. TIFF has always been my format of my choice for scans due to it being lossless and it’s ability to store metadata. Maybe there is a better choice now thanks to improvements in compression?

The setup we will be using:

* macOS Catalina
* Epson Perfection 4990 Photo flatbed scanner – It’s a 16 year old flatbed scanner, but it was well reviewed at the time. We aren’t scanning 35 mm and I doubt we will scan negatives as we don’t have many.
* Silverfast 8 scanning software or Image Capture – I don’t think it matters which I use. I’ll just load the scanner with as many photos as I can, then edit and crop them later in Lightroom.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Benzer Yazılar

Yorum eklemek için giriş yapmalısınız.

38 Yorumları

  1. What HARDWARE is best for this? I also am in a similar situation, looking for a good scanner that can tackle photo scanning.

  2. Scan them in, I would use higher DPI than the people below above are talking about, but only because it’s possible to downscale the image in 15 years, while you can’t ever improve scan resolution.

    Even if files go from 15 megs to 30, you’re talking like 30 gigs of data total for each 1000 photos.

    Due to the relatively small volume, I would stick these on cloud storage (maybe even more than one provider) unless you’ve got a ZFS array (you want your stuff stored on a raid volume that will help to prevent bit rot).

    I keep original lossless format copies of all photos and videos in my Google drive plus whatever I’m working on end up in my Adobe Creative Cloud storage.

  3. I would strongly recommend this book:

    [Digitizing Your Photos with Your Camera and Lightroom](https://www.damuseful.com/products/digitizing-your-photographs-pdf)

    Peter Krogh covers everything on the subject and even if you use a scanner and not a camera there is a lot to learn about how you would go about your project.

  4. I’d consider archiving the resulting files with metadata and optionally some created PAR file sets onto M-Disc optical discs. They claim a 1000 year shelf life – of course, that may be BS but it does look like they’re very reliable if stored well, ie without excess heat, moisture or light. The largest ones will swallow 100 GB per disc, though 25 gig discs may work out cheaper per gigabyte, not sure. An M-Disc writer can be had under a hundred bucks, so not that pricey.

    I mean, as one of the archive options. Personally I might also buy some space on Amazon’s S3 cloud, the cheapest 95 cents per terabyte level, and use that as another safety.

    Storing it on external drives, USB sticks and other normal home user stuff is folly, you’ll see bit rot/silent data corruption and data loss in a matter of years most likely. A ZFS-based properly designed storage system should keep the data from corrupting but you’d need to constantly shepherd the data from unit to unit, and make sure other backups exist as well (three copies, at least two different mediums, and not in just one location).

  5. I did the same thing a few years ago. Started off with a flatbed and the task became virtually impossible with hundreds of photos. I ended up renting an[ Epson FF680W](https://www.amazon.ca/Epson-FastFoto-FF-680W-Wireless-High-Speed/dp/B07DLX26BB/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=Photo+scanner&qid=1627971881&sr=8-8). It’s got an automated feeder that doesn’t bend photos like a traditional feeder does. You can put in about 100 photos at a time and it scanned about a photo ever 2 seconds or so (It’s been a few years so I don’t remember the details too well). Took me about a week total with removing photos from albums. You can buy it if you have the cash or see you can find a photo scanning shop that will rent one to you. Good luck!

  6. if space if not an issue, go with the largest lossless size, kind of a future proof if something else comes out you can change it into.

  7. Slightly off topic, but if you find negatives or positives that you’d want to scan, perhaps a university would let you use their film scanner. The one I worked with was a Nikon Coolscan. I can’t remember the model, but it looked like this.

    The resolution was far more impressive than than a scan of a print. Much better quality than I’ve seen from most digital cameras. I think files were saved as .TIFF and took up ~30mb each.

  8. For tagging / metadata / cataloging, you can consider [NeoFinder](https://cdfinder.de/). The interface might look a bit dated — it’s been out for 25 years and continuously updated (latest was July 21st) — but it’s one of the most reliable and fastest cataloging software out there. Well worth the price for a license.

  9. Dude, props for your whole family for this. 120 years of family history, that is quite a treasure.

  10. ABSOLUTELY THE MOST IMPORTANT THING you need to do is to preserve what is NOT on the photos — the information you can glean from your grandmother!

    The best way to do this (time efficient for her) is to set up a video camera to record you going through the photos with her, with the camera pointed at the photo on a plain flat background. Have her mention who is in each photo, where/when it was taken, anything special about the story behind the photo.

    You might have to do this in multiple sessions. It can be done over Zoom or whatever as well if you aren’t local.

    Check to be sure you have good audio. With good enough audio, you (or your descendants) could actually split up the audio track and attach the description to each photo, in your grandmother’s own words.

    This doesn’t take long per photo, and it’s likely there will be multiple photos from the same day, etc., so you don’t have to talk at length about each one. If they are already in an album, you can point the camera at the whole page and go through each one, pointing to the one you’re discussing.

    It’s best to do this with photos where you have the ability to look at the backs of them, since many people would put names, dates, or events on the back. If they’re stuck in the album, that may not be practical.

    It also REALLY, REALLY helps to have a decent family tree put together with at least people’s names, birth/death dates, and spouses/children. That way when she says “that’s Don” or “Joe So-and-so,” you know who the heck she’s talking about.

    There will be ambiguity. She won’t remember everyone, or won’t be certain who’s who, especially with children. That’s fine, keep it moving.

    If you can do this with two people (both grandparents, a great aunt/uncle, your parent, etc.), even better.

    Next, organize the physical collection roughly by decade, based on either dates on the photos or the rough ages of the people. That way you can organize your scanning process and filenames.


    I recommend 1200dpi, that’s what I went with. This is 4x larger than 600dpi, but gives me better confidence that I’ve captured every reasonable detail.

    You should consider using 2400dpi for small photos (say, 3×2 or smaller, common for school photos or some commercial cameras in the 40s-60s).

    Be sure to use the highest color setting available (the “bits,” which may range from 8 to 48 depending on the setting and whether the software is talking about per channel or total), even for B&W photos. Use a quality scanner. Cheap scanners are slow and do a crap job at color accuracy.

    Turn OFF any scanner “auto-enhancement” features (sharpening, noise reduction, etc.). Their shitty algorithms are not what you want for an archival “negative.”

    Don’t crop the photos too tightly. Include the borders, if there are any. Sometimes the borders have development dates. Other times, it’s handy to have a bit extra to make fixing any rotation issues more easily later.

    Save the photos as TIFF files, with LZW compression. DNG is also an acceptable format. Don’t save to JPEG.

    These files will be BIG. That’s fine. They will never get bigger, and hard drives will *only* get bigger and cheaper. Mine run around 300-600MB apiece on average,

    Name photos, where possible, based on the date and an index number. I basically use a format adapted from ISO 8601 dates, where I add “c” to the year if it is approximate, and “xx” as a stand-in for the month and/or day if unknown.

    Scan BOTH SIDES of each photo. You can skip the reverse side if it’s clearly blank. I add a suffix of “-front” or “-reverse” (I don’t use “-back” because I want my files to sort alphabetically with the front side first). I usually scan the backs at 300dpi unless there’s some seriously faded writing I want to try to correct later.

    Example filenames:

    – 1934-09-02-001-front.tiff
    – 1934-09-02-001-reverse.tiff
    – 1931c-xx-xx-001-front.tiff

    Use a spreadsheet to track the filenames. Later, you can use it to add the people’s names, etc. This information can then be cleaned up and pumped into the final photos’ XMP data using scripting tools.

    If you do end up splitting up the audio for each photo, you could name the audio description with the same filename but “-description” and save it in FLAC format.

    Always add people’s names to photo metadata with their full name. For women, use their maiden (unmarried) name, even if that seems weird based on what you usually call them now.

    Once you get everything scanned, I recommend Lightroom as a good choice for doing basic non-destructive editing. Be sure the Lightroom catalog is set to write your settings to “sidecar” XMP files for future preservation. From Lightroom, you can export lower-resolution JPEG files for your family tree, screen savers, sharing with family, or other common uses.

    Unfortunately, Lightroom doesn’t do XMP “tagging” for people in a photo. Google Photos use to do it, but that’s gone. There’s not any great options I’m aware of for that bit yet, so you have to just use the XMP description with indicators like “L-R, F-B” and enter the names comma-delimited.

    Something I haven’t looked into but should be doable would be to script generation of reduced-resolution JPEGs with an automatic mat border containing the date, filename, people, location, etc., which makes that info more accessible for people just looking at the photo who aren’t going to look at the metadata.


    Once you have the photos scanned, sorted, dated, named, etc., generate your final JPEGs (with full embedded metadata), and disseminate them as DVD-ROMs or flash drive gives to every family member possible. They’ll appreciate the gift, and the best protection for long-term archival (meaning, *centuries*) is having lots and lots of copies.

    Also, consider making a fully copy of the TIFF originals on a hard drive or two (can be older drives) and give them to some family members who are likely to take care of them.

    Finally, store the original photos properly for the future. Transfer them to acid-free albums or folders. Keep them in a cool, dry, dark place. If you live in an area prone to flooding, forest fires, etc., consider offloading them to another family member.

    With the original files, include a letter about the scanning process you went through, where the scans are located (who has copies), etc. In your digital files, do the opposite — include a README file with info about where the originals came from, where they are now, etc.

  11. Thanks everyone for the comments and questions. There is a ton of great information posted here.

  12. First thing to do is read Peter Krogh’s excellent [Digitizing you photos with your camera](https://thedambook.com/the-dam-book-guides/) guide. It’s *very* complete and covers a lot of what you’ll need. As a bonus get his The DAM Book as well which was invaluable for me to get my organization setup up to snuff. Currently have about 300k photos (events, weddings, personal, etc) and all are (or at least feel) well organized and easy to retrieve.

    I also have an upcoming “digitize all the analog stuff” project that I’m using his book as a guide for.

  13. Don’t forget to scan in text. Any journals and letters would need to be appropriated within the time lines of the pictures. If the hand writing is difficult to read you can auto translate it to text.

    And when starting such a project many other people will want to get involved with current digital pictures or updated landmarks. I recommend the Shotwell program for sorting those out.

    You may also want some satelite pictures or older surveys of regions. You can also find house blueprints and ownership deeds in public records.

  14. I use an scansnap Fuji IX 500. . This model is discontinued but they have newer models. It has an automatic feed and I scanned 2,000 photos in 4 hours all different sizes and it could have done the job quicker. It scans both sides of paper at once. It was they best $500 I spent a few years ago. There are newer models available

  15. you are batshit for doing those all on a flat bed, sorry but you just are.

    but a new age accounting firm scanner for whatever they cost ~800. it will pull the photos in groups and scan through. id blow my brains out before scanning 1000+ photos on a flatbed.

  16. NOTE: if you are scanning negatives, you should use a scanner with a film holder, because placing them directly on the platen will result in refraction artifacts.

    Also I would argue that __600dpi is a terrible resolution for 35mm negatives__.

    That’s not even a megapixel at 35mm sizes.

    __You should be scanning film negatives at 2400dpi.__

  17. Let us know what you end up doing! I’m trying to do something similar, but not sure where to also digitally store the photos

  18. Plustek Photo Scanner – ephoto Z300, Scan 4×6 Photo in 2sec, Auto Crop and Deskew with CCD Sensor. Support Mac and PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZJH63M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_E2CAVS5KG63AVQGB7BJ2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

    This has been pretty useful for me!

  19. While on this topic, what is the best possible way to share them out with password protection and to specific individuals.

  20. alternatively, I took all my grandma’s photos to a photo scanning lab and just had someone batch scan them. I didnt have 120 years worth but I did have a couple thousand and it was really convenient to just drop em off and pick everything up plus a dvdr a week later. I started doing it myself, but it just ended up being too tedious, so dont forget this might be an option for you

  21. My suggestion is a human resources one – do not do this by yourself. Recruit help, and factory assembly line it. So you and maybe someone else scan everything together, then hand off the files to process to someone else, then they hand those files off for Photoshop retouches, and then someone else (you or someone you trust with a good eye) approves the retouches, and then someone else decides how to post ALL images on imgr or google drive plus posting a few highlights on Facebook.

    I have worked in large data analysis before. Consistancy is going to be the most important thing. Do NOT hand out the photos to people, they WILL get lost or damaged. And with 1000 photos, you need to hold everyone to consistant file systems, websites, and touch-up methods, or things will get lost and ruined. Always keep a backup of the original scans, and check them visually before you decide that they are satisfactory digital originals.

    I suggest breaking 1000 files into 100 file sections, and assigning those sections to people. Cousin A works with section 1, hands it back to you, you approve their work, then you assign section 2. Always give out a copy of the original scan, never the original copy. If you’re working in Google Drive, make a copy of the section folder and share it with Cousin A, never let them work in the original directory.

  22. When you’re done, seriously look after the originals by treating them to a fire safe. Digital is great but not a substitute for media that can outlive multiple generations of your family. I’ve got a few gigabytes of digital photos backed up across multiple locations, different media types and with checksums/parity but every now and then we like to dig out the huge physical photo album to best appreciate the originals with family, friends and visitors.

  23. I’ve been working on the same thing recently, so here’s my experience:

    * 600dpi is just fine. It’s not too slow and gives good details.
    * I scan to jpg, but tiff is a good option too if you have the space.
    * How many albums are there? You might be under-estimating the number of photos to scan. I have like 10 albums from just one generation and each album is like 200 photos apiece.
    * Unless you want to get your grubby hands all over the photos and possibly crease them, you’ll need something to lift the photo off the scanner when you’re done since they stick flat pretty well. I use the pointy end of one of those [floss picks](https://greenspointdental.com/app/uploads/2016/04/shutterstock_208411795.jpg) to get up under it and it doesn’t hurt the photo.
    * It’s tedious, tedious work. It really is. Unfortunately, I don’t have a multi-scanner, but I’ve optimized the workflow into a Python script that scans a preview, scans the full photo, crops, then prompts for the date and comments in the terminal (if any) which are embedded as EXIF. It still takes a few hours to do 100 photos, especially if you need to remove them all from sleeves in an album.

    Good luck!

    Edit: almost forgot the most important thing – don’t know about your family, but for us any metadata on the prints is written on the *back* of the photo in pen. This will obviously not be scanned alongside the front of the photo, so make sure you have a system for recording this metadata in a way that it can be matched back to the right photo during post-processing and tagging.

  24. I just did something similar, and I’m glad I uploaded copies of all the images into Google Photos. The facial recognition is really powerful, and there were lots of examples of people we couldn’t identify that Google helped with. My grandma wasn’t sure who the subject was for an envelope of photos, but Google Photos tagged it as a cousin she *did* recognize and she figured out the subject was a different cousin. We also were able to edit the date/time in Google Photos itself, which lets relatives search by month/year to find family memories.

    Google Photos should, of course, not be your only method of storing the digital images.

  25. Most scanners can handle printed photos just fine, since photo paper can’t resolve too much more than 12 lines per mm, or 300 DPI (there is a little more detail than that, but it’s low contrast and grainy).

    It’s when you start scanning slides and negs that your scanner quality really starts to matter. Even mediocre negs can resolve upwards of 2500 DPI, and the lenses in most scanners can’t even come close to that.

    There is a wonderfully OCD German site here
    that tests the negative scanning of a whole range of scanners- it might be worth familiarising yourself with a few to understanding what you are up against in trying to preserve details in negs you particularly care about.

    Something else to think about is color depth – film scans often need a lot of cleanup in photoshop, ESPECIALLY color negatives. This can introduce nasty color banding or posterisation. Using 48bit color (16 bit per channel) instead of 24bit (8/channel) can mitigate this a lot.

    That said, hi res neg scanning is slow and takes up a truckload of space. I like to quickly scan negs in bulk at 1200 or 2400 DPI in 8 bit color on an Epson V700 as previews, then identify any trophy shots and either “scan” them with a digital camera and macro lens, or take them to a lab and run them thru an Imacon.

  26. There are a lot of great tips posted here that I wish I knew about when I did a similar project years ago. One of my relatives slipped out dozens of slide trays that were sitting in their parent’s closet for decades and sent them along to me to scan; nobody had seen them in ages because, well, who wants to sit down to a slideshow? All of a sudden those PowerPoint presentations start to sound like fun. My step-family is quite large, with my stepdad’s aunt and uncle, being the good Catholics that they are/were (RIP Uncle Rich), had nine kids. One passed away whilst he was a teenager, but the other eight have all had kids, and those kids are having kids. For some of these family members it was the first they’d seen of one of their uncles that they had only heard about.

    When I was done scanning and editing the images I made two-disc sets for everyone. For the technically-challenged, one disc consisted of a slideshow that could be played on any DVD player, whereas the other disc was just a data disc containing the images so that someone could make their own presentations or sort through/rename the images as they saw fit. The DVD presentation disc was often played at family gatherings and the kids and grandkids had a great time checking out their aunts and uncles, especially the ones that were oh so ‘70s – you probably know of the styles and trends of which I speak.

    I wish I had the opportunity to have done this for my own family; my mother gave most of the family photo albums to my sister, and she has explicitly cut off communication with our mother (and me, albeit indirectly; she never responds to my emails or cards, never reached out to me when I was being treated for cancer, etc.)

  27. 600 dpi will leave you with detail to recover photos if needed, and they will not be too huge. It’s still a bit overkill for most photos; film, especially when not perfectly exposed and in focus, will not have that much detail. But you don’t really want to go too low either, so unless you’re stuck with an excruciatingly slow scanner I’d go 600. And if you are, maybe look at a better scanner. 😉

    Personally, I would save the files as lossless PNG. That allows for full metadata and good compression, and is a good format to start from for future editing.

    I would also make backups on M-DISK, to move off site in case something happens. Either on DVD, making a disk when enough data has been gathered, or Bluray, depending on how fast and how much you scan.

    Even with that, I would try to keep two copies on disk locally, and if possible one on a NAS or similar somewhere else (can let that sync overnight, for example). These are precious memories.

    Also, use auto cropping scanner software. Well worth it to not have to splice apart images yourself. You’ll go nuts after a few hundred photos doing that. 🙂

  28. post them all on ancestry

    Edit: guys, ancestry auto archives all photos. This man said he wanted them archived I’m just giving a solution that actually works.

  29. I was faced with a similar task for old family photos. I was mainly concerned with all the cropping that I would need to do – very time consuming. Then by chance the scanner I was using automatically did this for me. I scanned a bunch of small photos on the flatbed, and it automatically recognised, split, and cropped every photo. So I could do several at once. Was pleasantly surprised. Perhaps something like this will save you some time?

  30. FYI there is a service that digitally scans your photos. I know you said you already have negatives but if you have undeveloped film they develop and scan it into a full resolution digital photo. Pretty cool video about the process. Good luck and have fun archiving.

  31. I just did this for about 10k family photos collected from multiple generations. I used the Epson FastFoto FF-680W at 600 dpi and then backed up to two different cloud storage. Being able to load in 20 or so at a time and let it run was key.

  32. For storage media, I recommend M-Disc.

    Use a name brand, with known high quality archival capability, and the effort to scan the photos will pay off for decades.

  33. For printed photos 600dpi is fine since scanning time isn’t the biggest issue. For negatives 600dpi is also good enough unless you’re a museum. You should also scan black and white photos in color as older ones have likely seen some discoloration in the paper and having the color information will help you tweek display versions later. Also definitely use TIFF masters, you can use LZW compression to reduce the file size as it is lossless.

    The technical aspects are only part of the issue. Also important is your workflow.

    1. You **must** use a consistent and regular naming scheme for all your scans. Organize photos in groups based on the year or source (blue photo album 2). Name the scans in relation to their physical source. Take photos with your phone of all the containers to keep a visual reference.

    2. When tagging photos in Lightroom or whatever you need to make sure all metadata including tags persists to the files themselves and isn’t just stored in Lightroom’s database. If you ever have to recover the images off damaged media you may not be able to recover the database so any metadata stored there can be lost.

    3. When tagging keep note of *who* provided the information for a tag. Grandma may think someone in a photo in John while grandpa might think it’s Ted and Aunt Janice swears it’s John.

    4. You need master copies backed up in multiple places. In addition to the files keep hashes and directory listings in plain text along side. Again if you need to recover the images from damaged media you may not get metadata (file names modification dates, etc) stored by the file system.

  34. I would personally use the highest resolution the scanner is capable. You can always downscale the image if needed. Upscaling is next to impossible.

  35. Save yourself a lot of time/effort and have https://www.scancafe.com do it. I’ve had thousands of photos and slides done by them. Always excellent service.

    Here’s a sample: